Phyllis's Scotland                    

 

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British Tourists


Sheep


Horned Sheep - Iona in the background


11th Century Chapel  

 

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Inverlussa B&B is very lovely; what I would think is high class British, warm, cozy and decorated with taste. We sleep well! (Helen helps us find a room for tonight near Tobermory, where we must be to perform at the school in the morning. She called all over and finally we found one just a few miles out of Tobermory.)

Over a hearty breakfast we chat with British tourists Linda and Allan, and Adrienne and Ron . We are asked for a little music and have fun performing over breakfast.

On the road again to meet the ferry to Iona, I am experiencing the Scottish norm of single track roads with ‘passing places’. These are usually found in rural and isolated regions like Mull, but they can be found periodically around Scotland. Passing places are very frequent on Mull and oncoming vehicles either pull in to let you go around them or we pull in depending on who is closest to a passing place. It is like some kind of bird dance or maybe squirrel dance – darting out and dipping in, waving thank you or hello.

Not everyone is sunny and friendly – must be the locals fed up with tourists who use passing places to park to take a walk or have a rest. The sheep, well generally they keep out of the way but on occasion they like to stand on the road to have their photos taken.

An hour's drive and a 5 minute ferry takes us to historic Iona, founded by Irishman St. Columba in 563. An ecclesiastical village, Iona is home to deceased Scottish Kings and Clan Chiefs. But it is also where Christianity came to Scotland. I go off to explore and Heather packs some of her Celtic CDs (God of the Elements / CAIM) to take to the Iona Community Bookshop hoping they will be interested in purchasing them. CAIM is a good fit for the pilgrims who trek to Iona.

 

I sit awhile in a tiny 11th Century chapel on the edge of the ancient graveyard, the oldest ecclesiastical building on Iona. A simple wooden cross in the corner is pinned with pilgrim’s prayer notes of thanksgiving, memorials of loved ones and special requests.

Heather has good news – after the manager of the bookstore listened to a few tracks of CAIM’s Cd they bought all of them. I’m pleased she can follow up on contacts for her music while toting me around.

I can see why visitors spend the whole day or weekend here. But we only have a couple of hours to spare so back on the ferry and back on the road heading toward one of the spots I am here to see – Calgary Bay!

                                          
                                                                                                      Iona
                                                                    
                                                              Iona image

 


Calgary House


Calgary Bay

Calgary Bay's Sea Shore
Calgary Bay's Sea Shore


Calgary Bay


Calgary Bay


Tobermory

I’m getting excited as we approach the landscape that seems familiar from the photo from Joyce and the wall photo in the city of Calgary Alberta’s atrium. We round the final corner, and ease down the steep hill, to behold a vista of blue/green water against white sands and rugged hills of green foliage. This is one of the loading sites, where Scottish crofters boarded, chased from the land during the famous Scottish Clearances, to take them to North America. This is more beautiful than the photos. The tide is out and I am surprised to see a wide beach of fine sand dunes. It feels good against my toes, walking and thinking about Colonel James MacLeod who named Calgary, Alberta after visiting here as a young boy. Calgary House sits proudly on the side of the hill just as its photo in our city hall.

There is a graveyard in the foreground. We must explore it, of course, but I see the fence and think we shouldn’t trespass. Heather says there is a Scottish rule – “This is Scotland and you can walk anywhere as long as you honour the country code: close gates you open, don’t litter and be respectful of the landlord's property”. So we enter.

Graveyards don’t lie and tombstones whisper a recurring theme to all who stop by, reminding us of the untreatable illnesses and epidemics that stole young souls regularly so long ago. What a contrast to the technology as we know it today, to heal and cure.

Donald MacLean died 1899 age 68 years

Janet (daughter) 1874 age 2 years

Marianne (daughter) 1877 age 9 years

A son 1903 age 29 years

 

 

Calgary Bay is beautiful and probably why a handful of caravans (RV’s) are camping here.

So far this has been worth the adventure of the single track roads and the journey to get here. I don’t want to leave but we still have a ways to go today.

The road to Tobermory is more curly than my hair! I feel like a kid – nauseous and car sick but the scenery is worth every bump and twist. It is impossible to stop on these roads to take photos and I know it would be impossible to capture the amazing vistas.

 

 

Eyes wide open – take it all in!

 haven’t had fish and chips in Scotland yet and Heather and I decide to make that our supper tonight in Tobermory, a little fishing village famous for its ocean front main street of colored shops and historic structures.

 

 

 

I’ve been told that bars were the best place for a good meal that was affordable. It was a shock to pay over $50 Canadian for 2 pop and 2 plates of fish and chips! Bellies full and pocketbook in shock we headed out of town six miles south of Tobermory for our next B&B, Arle Lodge. Here we could use the internet, make ourselves a snack and run through the songs for the presentation in the morning. It is “lovely”!

 

 

 

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